Reading Wind Mirage.
Reading wind mirage is easier than most people think. It just takes practice.
Have you ever looked through the scope and think it's out of focus or that your eyes are playing tricks on you? While those things could be true, it could also be you seeing the wind because of a heat mirage. It doesn't mean that it has to be hot out, just warm enough to see thermals. Consider the diagram above when you see the mirage again. Learn it, love it. Aim small miss small.
Check your surroundings before you index someone to read the wind...
Here's some more info that was provided to me via
BangSteel (long range shooting class)
1-2mph cannot feel on skin, does not move vegetation noticeably. Must be detected by dropping some dust,
an airborne seed, or the like. Very difficult to detect in mirage.
3mph can almost feel on skin, does not move vegetation noticeably.
4mph can just begin to feel on skin. Grass and leaves (in general) still do not move. Can be detected as a 3
to 4 mph wind in scope mirage, if present. Look for 11 o'clock or 1 o'clock lean.
5-6mph grass (average field length) bends over, and pushes back... leaves rustle. Mirage in scope leans
toward 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock. Scope mirage hardly useful after 6 mph. (flat lines)...
7-8mph grass lays over, and stays over. Leaves in constant motion on trees. Bare twigs of hardwood
trees (when foliage is off) will begin to twitch and bend.
9-10mph upper limbs of trees in motion, leaning, and pushing back. Pages in your notebook will flip. At
this level of wind, you begin to “hear” the wind whipping.
11-14mph trees lean over, and do not lean back. Limbs the size of your forearm will be in motion.
15 to 18mph wind is difficult to keep your balance in while walking. Entire tree heavily involved in sway. It
is best to “wait out” such levels of wind, and make your shot when the heavy wind subsides.